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The 1st strides to sewer fitting







The 1st strides to sewer fitting

Before carrying through any DIY plumbing and sewage, you should first take into consideration the rules issued by your Local Authority.

You will have to present detailed plans for the proposed drainage work when you are changing existing drainage system or installing a new drainage system, and also need regular inspections to be undertaken to ensure that the plans are following the local building regulations during progressing each phase of the work. In most cases they do not need to be notified for a simple replacement of broken parts.

Surface water is basically water from rain and is handled differently from dark waste water in a modern sewage development. It can drain out through a soakaway, watercourse, surface water sewer or, especially in older houses, into the dirty water sewage pipes. To stop any nasty odours emanating from the drains a combined system will discharge the surface water into the foul water drains by way of the gully traps. However, modern systems are designed to keep the foul water and the surface water apart. Rainwater and foul water drainage should not be interconnected, however convenient it may seem. If you are unsure about the drainage system around your house get advice from the Building Control Department before you start any work.

Designing the path of the waste passageways will be your first task. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. You must avoid making your pipe runs too steep. A surveyor’ site level should be used to work out the fall of a drain. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hosepipe filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.

You will need to ensure that you do not impact on the stability of the home whilst installing your drain ditch. The substructure of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drain runs parallel to it.

The pipes should be laid before too long a ditch is dug as a new ditch can be unstable. Excavate a part of the sewage system, install and test the pipework, and then back fill and compact the earth before moving on to the next part.

Depending on the depth and soil conditions, the trench may require support. It is advisable to take proper precautions. If in doubt add support to the trench to prevent it from collapsing. Keep the ditch as narrow as possible, but allow room to work in the ditch. Ensure that the trench bottom is flat and free of stones, tree roots and soft spots. You may have to bring in the right type of material for the bottom of the ditch if the one that’s already there is not proper.

Never use bricks and/or other hard materials to support the pipe in the ditch. This will damage the pipe and must never be used as temporary or permanent support. The bedding should be made compact to fit around the pipe joints. For the complete pipe length you have to provide a continuous and uniform support.

When designing your sewage system, it is important to make all parts of the pipework reachable via a set of drain rods should a blockage occur. This need for drain rod access can be easily achieved by keeping the pipeline straight and in short sections. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.

DIY plumbing and sewage is within the reach of many DIY fans if you follow these simple rules.

Posted in Drain


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