Drain installing, what to do 1st
Drain installing, what to do 1st
Local building laws and processes have to be complied with whenever you perform sewage or pipework repairs and fitting by yourself.
You need to explain your work plan in detail to the authority if you wish to install a new sewage system or alter an existing one, the officials will then go through the plan to check if it is in accordance with the rules. In most cases they do not need to be notified for a simple replacement of broken parts.
Whatever water we see on the surface around your home is usually rainwater. It can drain out through a soakaway, watercourse, surface water sewer or, especially in older houses, into the dirty water drainage pipes. The rainwater pipes in combined sewage systems empty their discharge into the foul water drains through gully traps, this prevent foul air from escaping outside creating odours. But modern systems are especially created so that dirty water and surface water remain separate. Foul water should never be connected to surface water drainage system with any new sewage development you undertake. If you are unsure about the drainage system around your house get advice from the Building Control Department before you start any work.
To properly prepare the plans and get local authority permission to commence work there is a need for you to plan the route of the waste pipes before you begin. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. Also, make sure none of the pipes are laid at too steep an angle. Use a surveyor’s leveling tool to set out the slope of the drain ditch. A hosepipe filled with water from an established datum point can be used if you don’t have a surveyor’s site level.
Don’t compromise the stability of the house when putting in the drainage ditch. If placing a drain pipe alongside the home, you need to make sure any foundations are not weakened.
When fitting in a new drainage system, you should not dig the ditch too long before placing the pipe as the ditch could collapse. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.
Because of different depth and soil conditions the trench will probably need to be supported. You should avoid any risks with this project. Be on the safe side and secure the sides of such risky trenches by propping with sheets or boards. Make sure that you leave enough room in the trench for you to work but try to keep it as small as possible. The ditch base must be smooth and clean, there shouldn’t be any bricks or protruding stones around. If the existing soil is too weak or clayey, you should place and compact a layer of firmer soil at the base of the ditch to prevent later sinking.
The pipe present in the trench should not be supported using bricks or other such materials. In fact they should be never used as support as they can damage the pipe as they will focus pressure into a small area. The material used for bedding should be firmly compacted down with a depression created to allow the joints in the pipes to fit easily. The support should be smooth and even, from the beginning of the pipe to its end.
It is important that all parts of your sewage system are designed so that all parts of the pipework are accessible to a set of drain rods. Thus, a drain route must be as straight as possible between any two points. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.
DIY plumbing and drainage is within the reach of many DIY fans if you follow these simple rules.